Raeford, North Carolina - Landlubbers version of sky diving.  If you would like to escape the mundane pleasures of life such as walking over hot coles in your bare feet, I offer for your consideration a trip to Raeford, North Carolina.  “Why”, you may ask, “would I want to go to Raeford, North Carolina; especially if I had to drive more than a mile to do so?”.  Because, it is the home of (drum roll and clash of cymbals) Paraclete XP SkyVenture.  XP SkyVenture is a three story, 12,000 square foot facility that contains a specialized wind tunnel for indoor skydiving plus three recreation rooms and a snack area.  The idea of having a snack area in a facility like this is, in my opinion, like having a hot dog shack next to a roller coaster, but I digress.  So, if you would like to fly around like an astronaut without going into space or be a pseudo Golden Knight without bailing out the back end of a military transport this might be just what you are looking for.  It certainly won’t be the same old, same old.  I must admit that my calculations for what makes a good real estate investment fail me on this one but then again I don’t know the math of the business and the guy who built it has been financially successful in other businesses so - -.  The facility is reported to have cost a cool $10 million.  You will need to be certain your bank account is in good shape before dashing off to enjoy the simple pleasures of hurricane force winds in this pleasure dome.   A half hour will set you back $400 while a full hour can be had at the bargain rate of $700. To get to Xanadu, pardon me SkyVenture, from Raleigh take I-40 to I-95 south.  Follow business I-95/U.S. 301 into Fayetteville.  Take a right on Grove street, left at Bragg Boulevard to U.S. 401.  West on 401, right on Brock Road to Paraclete.  Paraclete to XP SkyVenture at 190 Paraclete Drive.  For more info. call 888-475-9386 and/or try www.paraclet-exp.com.  If you are flying in from the West Coast or from out of the country to try this out and would like more info about the area call me at the telephone number given below or send me an email at the below address.  Somehow I don’t think this is what Sinatra had in mind but what the hay - whatever makes your motor go. 

John Fish (919) 696-3474    Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com   Website: www.JohnFish.com 

Raleigh, North Carolina.  The information I have used for this three-part blog regarding R-values and insulation has come from a number of sources.  A primary one is the U.S. Department of Energy.  I mention them in particular because they have a group of very useful tables you might want to refer to if you decide to compute what you need in the way of insulation for your home regardless of where you live.  I am going to duplicate much of that information because some of you who read this may want to refer back to these posts in order to find the government tables I am going to recommend.  The computer program in question, as previously mentioned, is called the ZIP-Code because it includes weather and cost information for local regions defined by the first three digits of each postal zip code.  It allows help you to determine your own local costs and certain facts about your house to improve the accuracy of the recommendations.  This information is seveal years old but most of the R-value information will still be essentially valid.  If you just want to make a quick estimate follow the steps they suggest as follows:  Tables 1 and 2 will help you identify the type of insulation and its R-value as presently installed.  Determine the kind of insulation you have from Table 1 and circle it on Table 2.  Then, multiply the thickness of your insulation by the “R-value per inch”.  This will give the the total R-value of your existing insulaton.

The next step is to compare the R-value of your insulation with the recommended R-values for your house and your type of space heating.  Using these recommended R-values, subtract the R-value of the insulation already in your home.  The result will be the R-value you should add.  You can use the information on Table 2 to estimate the thickness required from different materials to achieve this added R-value.  This approximate thickness may help you choose your insulation material. especially if you are working within a confined space.  However, when purchasing or installing new insulation, always consult the product label for accurate thickness information.  Many special products have been developed to give higher R-values in a smaller thickness.  On the other hand, some materials require a greater initial thickness to offset eventual settling or to assure that you get the rated R-value under a range of temperature conditions.  When you stack new insulation on top of existing attic insulation, the existing insulation is compressed a small amount.  THis will slightly decrease the total R-value of the insulation.  This effect is most important if the new insulation is more dense than the old insulation.  You can compensate for this stacking effect and achieve the desired total R-value by adding about one extra inch of insulation if the old insulation is fiber glass, or about 1/2 inch if the old insulation is rock wool or cellulose.  For example, consider an existing house in St. Paul, Minnesota (zip code 55103) with a gas furnace.  The recommended R-value for the attic floor insulation for this house is R-38.  If the existing attic floor insulation has an R-11 insulation value, then an additional R-27 would be needed to bring the attic floor insulation up to the level recommended for that house.  The homeowner could then check Table 1 to find several choices.  Remember to buy the new insulation based on this R-value, and to check the product label to determine the proper thickness of the new insulation.  Choosing a slightly higher level of insulation, such as R-30, would serve to offset the stacking effect discussed above.  So that I don’t forget it, to get access to the tables mentioned above type the following address into your computer: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_05.html

Types of Insulation - - Basic Forms

Form: Blankets: Batts or Rolls  * Fiber glass   * Rock Wool   Method of Installation: Fitted between studs, joists and beams   Where Applicable: All unfinished walls, floors and ceilings  Advantages:  Do-it-yourself.  Suited for standard stud and joist spacing, which is relatively free from obstructions.

Form: Loose-Fill (blown-in) or Spray-applied  * Rock wool   * Fiber glass   * Cellulose   *Polyurethane foam   Method of Installation: Blown into place or spray applied by special equipment   Where Applicable: Enclosed existing wall cavities or open  new wall cavities.  Unfinished attic floors and hard to reach places.   Advantages:  Commonly used insulation for retrofits (adding insulation to existing finished areas).   Good for irregularly shaped areas and around obstructions.

Form: Rigid Insulation   * Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS)   * Expanded polystyrend foam (EPS or beadboard)   * Polyurethane foam   * Polyisocyanurate foam   Method of Applications:  Must be covered with 1/2 inch gypsum board or other building-code approved material for fire safety.  Exterior Applications: Must be covered with weather-proff facing   Where Applicable: Basement walls.   Exterior walls under finishing (Some foam boards include a foil facing which will act as a vapor retarder.  Please read the information about where to place, or not to place, a vapor retarder).   Unvented low slope roofs.   Advantages:  High insulating value for relatively little thickness.   Can block thermal short circuits when installed continuously over frames or joists.

Form:  Reflective Systems:  * Foil-faced paper   * Foil-faced polyethylene bubbles   * Foil-faced plastic film   * Foil-faced cardboard    Method of Installation: Foils, films, or papers: Fitted between wood-frame studs, joists and beams.   Where Applicable:  Unfinished ceilings, walls and floors.   Advantages:  Do-it-yourself.   All suitable for framing at standard spacing.  Bubble-form suitable if framing is irregular or if obstructions are present.  Effectiveness depends on spacing and heat flow direction.

Table 2.  Evaluating the R-value of Insulation Previously Installed in Existing Homes.  (Includes Effects of Aging and Settling).

Insulation Type:                                                                  R-value per inch of thickness

Fiber glass blanket or batt                                                       2.9 to 3.8 (use 3.2)                High performance fiber glass blanket or batt                              3.7 to 4.3 (use 3.8)             Loose-fill fiber glass                                                                2.3 to 2.7 (use 2.5)              Loose-fill rock wool                                                                 2.7 to 3.o (use 2.8)            Loose-fill cellulose                                                                   3.4 to 3.7 (use 3.5)           Perlite or vermiculite                                                                2.4 to 3.7 (use 2.7)            Expanded polystyrene board                                                    3.6 to 4   (use 3.8)          Extruded polystyrene board                                                     4.5 to 5   (use 4.8)       Polyisocyanurate board, unfaced                                               5.6 to 6.3 (use 5.8)       Polyisocyanurate board, foil-faced                                              7                                      Spray polyurethane foam                                                         5.6 to 6.3 (use 5.9)

Use this formula to determine the R-value of your existing insulation:  Thickness (inches) x     R-value per inch = Total R-value

Use this formula to determine how much insulation you need to add:  Recommended R- value - Existing insulation R-value = R-value needed.

Do you want to know if you have the space available to add the insulation you need?  Then use this formula to determine the appropriate thickness you need to add:  R-value needed divided by the R-value per inch = Approximate thickness needed.  However, remember to use the product information on the insulation packaging to determne the actual thickness for any new insulation.

With regard to day one, answering your child’s sex questions just might be easier - - depending on the approach you take.  “Shut up and watch TV is always a good one”.

Once you have done your calculation and determined the insulation you might want to use, go to your local “they have everything” store and check on their prices and you will have a pretty accurate idea of what it will cost if you are going to do the job.  If you are going to have it done you will, at least, be armed with information needed to discuss the job with the companies you talk to.

John Fish (919) 696-3474     Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com     Website:  www.JohnFish.com

Raleigh, North Carolina.  What are the basic forms of insulation?  They are: BLANKETS.  They come in the form of batts or rolls of flexible products made of mineral fibers.  Continuous rolls can be hand-cut and trimmed to fit.  They are available with or without vapor retarding facings.  Batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various widths for basement walls where insulation is left exposed.  RIGID INSULATION.  It is made from fibrous materials or plastic foams and is pressed or extruded into board-like forms and molded pipe-coverings.  They may be faced with a reflective foil that reduces heat flow when next to an air space.  BLOWN-IN loose-fill insulation includes loose fibers or fiber pellets that are blown into building cavities or attics.  Another form includes fibers that are co-sprayed with an adhesive to make them resistent to settling.  The blown-in material can provide additional resistance to air infiltration.  FOAMED-IN-PLACE polyurethane foam insulation can be applied by professional applicators using special equipment to gauge mix and spray  into the spaces to be insulated.  REFLECTIVE INSULATION SYSTEMS.  These are fabricated from aluminium foils wtih a variety of backings such as Kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard.  Reflective systems are often located between floor joists, roof rafters or wall studs.  SIPS - Structural Insulated Panels.  These are panels made from a thick layer of foam sandwitched between two layers of Oriented Strand Board.  SIPs are a widely used alternative construction materila for homes and other buildings.  AAC - AUTOCLAVED AERATED CONCRETE.  It is an economical solid block that provides thermal and acoustic insulation as well as fire and termite resistance.  It is available in a variety of forms, ranging from wall and roof panels to locks and lintels.  INSULATING CONCRETE FORMS.  These are foam forms filled with reinforced concrete and reinforced bar to create insulated structural walls.  They can be used to form various structural configurations, such as a standard wall, post and beam, or grid.  THey provide backing for interior and exterior finishes.  ICYNENE is the leading soft foam insulation and air barrier system and is becoming the industry standard for providing maximum building envelope performance.  Its pour and spray formulations represent a breakthrough in moisture and thermal management.  It’s a 100% water-blown foam insulation that minimizes air leakage for increased energy efficiency, creates a healthier indoor environment, reduces airbourne sounds and offers greater design freedom.  It doesn’t shrink, sag or settle.  It adheres to most construction materials and is a perfect insulation for walls, attics, ceilings and floors. 

The following is a listing of the R-Values for various products.  Comparisons per inch of thickness are mostly relevant for conductive and convective heat transfer and not radiant heat transfer.  Some of the materials listed below are designed to prevent radiant heat transfer.   Vacuum insulated panel has the highest R-value at R-45.  Aerogel R-10.  Isocyanurate and phenolic foam insulations R-8.3 and R-7 respectively.  Polyurethane and polystyrene insulation R-6 amd R-5.  Loose cellulose, fiberglass both blown and in batts, and rock wool both blown and in batts R-3.  Single pane glass window R-1, Double pane glass window R-2,  Double pane glass windos with low emisivity coating R-3, Triple pane glass window R-3, Wood panels such as sheathing R-2.5, Vermiculite loose-fill R-2.13 to R-2.4, Rock and slagw wool loose-fill R-2 to R-3.3, Rock and slag wool batts R-3 to R-3.85, Fiberglass loose-fill R-2.2 to R-3.7, Fiberglass rigid panel R.2.5, Fiberglass batts R-2 to R-3.85, High density fiberglass batts R-3.6 to R-5, Cementitious foam R-2 to R-3.9, Cellulose loose-fill R-3 to R-3.8, Icyuene spray R-3.6, Icyuene loose-fill R-4, Urea formaldehyde foam R-4 to R-4.6, Urea formaldehyde panels R-5 to R-6, Ployethylene foam R-3,Phenolic spray foam R-4.8 to R-7, Phenolic rigid panel R-4 to R-5, Molded expanded polystyrene R-3.7 for low-denisty and R-4 for high-density, Extruded expanded polystyrene R-3.6 to R-4.7 for low-density and R-5 to R-5.4 for high-density, Open-cell polyurethane spray foam R-3.6, Closed-cell polyurethane spray foam R-3.6, Polyurethane rigid panel R-6.8 initial, R-5.5 aged (5-10 years), Polyurethane rigid panel R-7 to R-8 initial, R-6.25 aged (5-10 years), Polyisocyanurate spray foam R-4.3 to R-8.3, Foil-based polyisocyanurate rigid panel initial R-6.8, aged R 5.5 (5-10 years), Silica aerogel R-10, Foil-backed bubble pack R-1 to R-2, Vacuum insulated panel as high as R-30? and Cardboard R-3 to R-4.  Got that?  Natural rock, dirt, sod, adobe and concrete have poor thermal resistance (usually less than 1) but do work well for thermal mass applications because of their high specific heat.

You can use your own assumptions to calculate recommended insulation levels by using the ZIP-Code computer program. It is called ZIP-Code because it includes weather and cost information for local regions defined by the first three digits of each postal service zip code. The type of insulation you use is determined by the part of the country you live in and the nature of the spaces in the house you want to insulate.  You should also know that different types of insulation can be used together.  You can add batto or roll insulation over loose-fill insulation or visa-versa.  Normally, material of higher density should not be placed on top of lower density insulation.  It you do you will reduce the thickness of the lower material and thus reduce the R-value.  A qualified home energy auditor will check your insulation as part of an energy audit.  Your local utility company can direct you to one.  This audit will identify the amount of insulation you have and the amount you need. 

Tomorrow I will finish this information with a table of basic forms of insulation, how they are installed, where they apply and their relative advantages. 

John Fish (919) 696-3474     Email:  Marvmax@mindspring.com     Website: www.JohnFish.com

Raleigh, North Carolina.  Questions that cause strong men and women to cower!  Two or three times a month I am asked “What is an R Value and what does it have to do with insulation?”.  The answer, is like the answers to most children’s questions about sex; the mechanism is simple but the application can be complicated.  The trick is to try and give a proper answer before the person asking the question loses interest and you get in over your head!  With regard to R-values the simple answer is that the various kinds of insulation used in a home are measured by a resistance value (R value) which is the ability to resist the flow of heat.  Heat naturally flows from warmer to cooler spaces.  For example, in the winter that means from heated spaces into a garage, basement or outdoors.  During the summer heat moves from the outside to a home’s interior.  Therefore, the purpose of insulation is not just to plug holes but to reduce heat flow by effectively resisting  it.  So, insulation = a barrier.  Heat = thermal.  Resistance = the R in R value.  This is a rough equasion but valid.  The higher the R-value the greater the insulating ability.  The R-value of insulation depends on the material used and, for the most part, its thickness and density.  When calculating the R-value of a multiple layers the R-value of each layer is added together.  Frankly, I should let it go at that but - press on.

How effective an insulated area is also depends on how and where the insulation is installed.  Compressed insulation doesn’t provide a full R-rating.  The value is also affected by the flow of heat around the insulation and through joints and studs.  When insulating is is important to: (1) - Insulate you attic to the recommended level.  (2) - Provide the proper level of insulation above unheated space, under floors, around the walls of a heated basement or unventilated crawlspace.  (3) - Use specified levels of insulation thre exterior walls in new home construction. 

If you own a home and are thinking about adding or replacing insulation you need to consider the sources of air leaks.  Sources include openings around doors, window frames, fireplaces, chimneys, stove hoods, electrical outlets, recessed cabinets, pull-down stairs, bathroom soffits, behind bath tubs and shower stall units, unheated parts of the house, around pipes under sinks and behind toilets, and the joints between a porch roof and a side wall.  However, the “plugging the holes and insulating everywhere you can” game is a two-way street.  You also need to be certain your home has adequate ventilation so it can “breath” properly since a home that is “tight as a tick” may actually cause the interior air to become to unhealthy, poluted and cause some nasty health problems. The “too tight” home can also cause increased moisture levels in conditioned space during heating season.  This can take the form of condensation on windows, surface mold and mildew and concealed condensation within walls and roof spaces.  Structural wood may rot and drywall can swell.  Another thing to check is the venting of your clothes dryer.  Sometimes clothes dryers are vented into an attic space rather than to the outside.  If that’s the case in your home see to it that it is vented to the outside!  Air exchange units with heat saving features are available for help solve the other problems listed above.  Tomorrow I will talk about the basic forms of insulation.  Have you lost interest yet?

John Fish (919) 696-3474    Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com    Website: www.JohnFish.com

Raleigh, North Carolina.  Raleigh Planning Commission expects to approve Super Wal-Mart.  The 210,000 square foot Wal-Mart Supercenter will be just east of Triangle Town Center.  It will be on 27 acres between Triangle Town Boulevard, I-540 and Old Wake Forest Road/Fox Road.  It will be the 18th Wal-Mart, Wal-Mart, Wal-oh well, in the Triangle.

A Raleigh News & Observer columnist Dennis Rogers and his wife are doing their version of Charles Kuralt by reporting from the road on their trip west on Route 66.  A lof of us “old timers” have traveled Route 66 when it was the Route 66 of Nat Cole’s song - and well before.  I feel certain that there are many other well traveled ”drives” that are deeply etched in the minds of their travelers as well.  Some have route numbers and some don’t.  In most cases it doesn’t matter since it was the reason for the trips that counted.  There is one from Decatur, Illinois to Chicago that my wife and I traveled many times when we were first married.  It remains fresh in our minds to this day.  The trips needed to be, and were, carefully planned.  We would go to work dressed up and when we got off pile into our limousine (a Volkswagen we called Fritz) and drive furiously to the Lyric Theatre in Chicago to catch the opening curtain of whatever opera we were going to see.  Most of the time we just made it.  If you are late and the opera is Aida you can forget Celesta Aida.  An evening at the Lyric had all the glitz and glamour you could possibly ask for and I had the good fortune to escort the loveliest lady of them all.

I can tell you that Fritz was a lot faster than VW’s were supposed to be capable of.  All things considered, we were very fortunate never to have gotten a speeding ticket.  The 150 miles between Decatur and Chicago, mostly two lane roads at that time, made for more adventure and narrow escapes than sanity called for.  The trips from Chicago back to Decatur were at a more leisurely pace.  However, they offered only one place you could get something to eat late at night or in the early morning hours. It was a truck stop that should not be thought of in same terms as the huge, brightly lighted, you can get anything you need affairs found all along today’s super highways.  No, no.  This was a Truck Stop!  A diesel smell, gear grinding, dimly lit, clang and bang, tired and sleepy, get some gas and keep going truck stop where you could get a cup of coffee that would eat the enamel off of your teeth and pie that left a lump in your gut for a week.  We loved it then and we love it now (or at least the memory of it).

Yes, we did see Callas and Gobbi do Tosca.  You Callas lovers aren’t going to love me anymore.  My name for her is marble mouth.  It has always seemed to be that she practiced what Demosthenes taught when she sang and that was NOT the time to do it.  None-the-less Callas and Gobbi provided an evening never to be forgotten.  Oh, Gobbi didn’t have the huge warm voice of Leonard Warren but his rough and craggy voice made for a great Scarpia and an equally fine Iago.  Let me hear from you.

John Fish (919) 696-3474   Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com   Website: www.JohnFish.com

Raleigh, North Carolina.  Thousands shiver in the shower!  Is one of these bathers you?  You step into the tub turn on the water and then jump to the back of the tub to escape the freezing stream of cold water that blasts out of the shower head.  That process is uncomfortable, wastes water and costs you money.  Traditional gas or electic tank heaters have been around since the early part of the twentieth century and have been little changed during the last 25 or 30 years.  Most have heating elements at the top and bottom.  One of them cycles on or off constantly whether you are home or not and so that increases your heating bill.  Most of us heat our water to very high temperatures, often times dangerously high, in order to have a maximum amount of hot water available when we want it.  When you turn on the hot water faucet the tank adds cold water which, of course, lowers the overall water temperature in the tank.  This causes the element to use more power to reheat that water.  You, in turn, turn on the cold water faucet and fiddle with both faucets until you can achieve a suitable temperature for your use.  Sound wasteful?  It is.  A 60 gallon tank has 45 gallons of useable hot water.  Furthermore there is a “stand-by” heat loss.  This is the radiating loss of heat a conventional tank is constantly losing.   

What’s the alternative?  A tankless water heater.  It is a compact heating unit that provides hot water on demand.  For this reason it is also known as an “on demand” system.  It does not store hot water like a traditional tank-type water heater.  When a hot water tap is opened water enters the heater. The system senses the demand and a gas or electric heating device starts heating and delivering hot water at a predetermined temperature. The electronic ignition system eliminates the need for a pilot light.  The heating element shuts off once the water flow stops. Since the tankless water heater only uses energy to heat the water as it is used your savings are estimated to be 20% to 40% OF the 20% of your energy bill that goes into heating water and not that of your entire energy bill.  None-the-less, on an annual basis that amounts to a bunch of bucks.  You are a candidate for a tankless water system if your current water heater has gone to heater heaven (more likely the city dump), it is not providing enough hot water or you want to lower you energy bills.  Take a look at the price of oil and tell me if that matters.  The time to think about this is before you MUST.  You really don’t want to hear ”John the water is freezing and the crawl space is full of water!!”  When you change from a “regular” water heater tank to a tankless system your plumbing will have to be modified.  Items such as a recirculating loop take time to install and, depending on local ordinances, you may have permits and licenses to deal with.  Tankless water heaters have been popular in Europe for many years but are relatively new to the U.S.   The down and dirty of these systems is that they are somewhat limited in the amount of hot water they can produce at one time and they cost more than a conventional storage type water heater.  Since they don’t start heating water until you call for it, it can take longer for you to get it.  However their are specialized pumps are available that, when combined with the waterless tank system can get hot water to you in less than half the time it takes if you turn a faucet wide open using a conventional water heater.  Also, you don’t have to worry about a water tank rusting out, leaking or breaking and doing substantial damage to your home; especially if it is located on an upper floor.  A building contractor friend of mine has a 9,000 square foot home that has 5 Rinnai units in it.  It provides all the water his family needs without limitation.  He says that one unit can, generally speaking, handle the needs of a 2 1/2 bath home.  He further states that with a recurulating pump and storage tank owners will rave about the system while without them they will rave at it.   

So now you are interested in a tankless water heater.  Who makes them?  Manufacturers include Bosch, Eemax, Noritz, Paloma, Powerstar, Rheem, Rinnai, Seisco, Takagi and Titan.  In the U.S. companies such as Eemax and Seisco have taken some innovative approaches to these systems and are worth checking out.  Rheem was bought out by Paloma (Japanese) in 1988.  None-the-less, Rheem still has a line under its name as does Paloma.  There are, of course, electric models, natural gas models and propane gas models.  As you might immagine the electric models take longer to heat than the natural and propane gas models.  You would do well to look into the ratings of an eletric unit to see you much hot water per minute it produces and calculate how much water is simultaneously use in your abode.  Propane units heat quickly and efficiently.  However, propane is stored in a tank on your lot and not piped into your home.  An air supply is needed to provide for proper combustion and to be certain that the gases combusion produces are safely vented out of your home for both propane and natural gas systems.   If you already have natural gas to your home running it to your tankless heater system is no big deal.  Again, keep in mind that in most situations a permit will be required and the work will need to be approved by a city or county inspector.  Bascially, there are two types of systems: Point-of-Use and Whole-House.  A Whole House tankless water heater can produce from 2 to 5 gallons of hot water per minute and are designed to provide hot water to the entire house from a central location.  Point-of-Use tankless water heaters are designed to heat enough water for one or two fixtures only.  They are used when you need hot water at some distance from a home’s central system such as guest house shower or sink. With normal maintenance a tankless water heating system can last 20 years or more.  That is about twice the life of a standard tank heater.  More than 7.3 million tank water heaters are dumped into landfills every year so the more tankless systems that go into use the less junk for the dump.  Furthermore, the U.S. Department of energy says that if all the tank-type hot water heaters were replaced with tankless units there would be a saving of 290 million gallons of fuel oil per year; 164 million gallons of propane or 6 billion hours of kilowatt electricity.  I am not about to suggest what type of unit you should use.  The very best advice I can give you is to have a heart to heart with your building and/or plumbing contractor.  What units are available in your area and IN PARTICULAR the local plumbing companies that have experience in installing such units are of far more importance to you than one unit vs. another.  I can promise you that almost any contractor that handles only gas units will tell you that electric units stink and visa versa - and prove it!  When you are doing your homework and if you are interested in electric units I would recommend you go to Google, type in - tankless water heaters - and look for an article by David Seitz called - THE GUIDE TO TANKLESS WATER HEATERS.  His credentials are impressive and he certainly makes a strong case for electric vs. gas systems.     

How do you determine your needs and the unit you should use?  The following information about this is from  Chili Pepper Appliances. Since, without the proper pump, you have to let the water run longer to get your water there can be water wastage. They produce pumps that are used to solve this problem.  They say the first thing you need to do is list the number of faucets and shower heads you expect to have open at any given time and add up their flow rates.  This equals the desired flow rate for the water heater.  Once you know this, THEN go looking or have your plumber or contractor look for the unit you want.  Water flow for various appliances is -  Faucets: 0.75 gallons (2.84 liters) to 2.5 gallons (9.47 liters) per minute.  Low-flow showerheads” 1.2 gallons (4.54 liters) to 2 gallons (7.57 liters) per minute.  Standard (bring it on!) shower heads: 2.5 gallons (9.46 liters) to 3.5 gallons (13.24 liters) per minute.   Clothes washers and dishwashers: 1 gallon (3.79 liters) to 2 gallons (7.57 liters) per minute.  Unless you know otherwise, assume that the incoming potable water temperature is 50 degrees F (10 degrees centigrade).  For most uses you will want your water heated to 120 degrees F (49 degrees C) for most uses and 140 degrees F (60 degrees C) for dishwashers without internal heaters.  To determine how much of a temperature rise you need, subtract the incoming water temperature from the desired output temperature.  Most tankless hot water heaters are rated for a variety of inlet water temperatures.  Select the model closest to your needs.  Chili Pepper gives the following example:  Assume one hot water faucet open with a flow rate of 0.75 gallons (2.84 liters) per minute.  One person in the shower using a shower head with a flow rate of 2.5 gallons (9.46 liters) per minute.  Add the two flow rates together.   If the inlet water temperature is 50 degrees F (10 degrees C), the needed flow rate throudh the heater would need to be no greater than 3.25 gallons (12.3 liters) per minute.  Faster flow rates or cooler inlet temperatures will reduce the water temperature at the most distant faucet.  Some systems are thermostatically controlled.  They can vary their output temperature according to the water flow rate and the inlet water temperature.  This is useful when using a solar water heater for preheating the inlet water.  If, using this example, you connect this same tankless water heater to the outlet of a solar system, it only has to raise the water temperature a few degrees more, if at all, depending on the amount of solar gain that day.  Thank you Chili Pepper Appliances. 

A tankless hot water heater can be installed in a garage, laundry room or just about anywhere that is covenient, even outside.  Size-wise the Rinnai tankles hot water heater, for example, has a wall mounted unit is 14″x24″x9″ vs approx. 20″ in diameter x 47″ high for a 40 gallon tank while the weight is 46 lb. vs. about 250 lbs.  The system features digital controllers that allow the user(s) to select the desired water temperature.  Using wireless remotes or wall-mounted digital controllers, users can change the temperature from wherever they are in the home.

I was able to find an independent study done by the Okaloosa Gas District in Valparaiso, Florida which measured a Rinnai system against both a gas fired, and an electric 40-gallon hot water tank.  It measured three key factors: hot water recovery time, energy efficiency and economic savings.  The testing procedure guidelines were developed, in part, from the Federal Register which provides a standard for fair comparison between energy efficiency, energy use and the operating cost of each water heater under the same testing conditions.  Hot water was drawn from each heating system every 30 minutes each weekday from 7 am to 3 pm for a total of 360 draws.  Before starting the tests each was set to output water at 135 degrees Fahrenheit.  Also, the energy meter readings and cumulative water drawn were recorded at the beginning of each draw.  Results showed that the Rinnai provided consistent 135-degree water.  The electric and gas heaters could not maintain that temperature.  The Rinnai operating costs were considerably lower that both of the others.  The monthly average cost with the Rinnai was $21 less than the electric 40-gallon tank and about $6.50 less thatn the gas-fired 40-gallon tank.  With regard to energy consumption, the electric 40-gallon tank used 332.9 kilowatts per hour while the Rinnai used only 0.6 kilowatts during the same test period.  When measured against the natural gas-fired tank, the Rinnai saved an average of 6.6 therms of natural gas.  As recovery time, the test evaluated the time it took each unit to reheat water to a desired temperature.  It took the electric tank system approx. one hour to fully recover while the natural gas-fired tank took thirty-three minutes.  The Rinnai was not part of this test since the unit doesn’t store water.  It is directly connected to water line and heats water only when a hot water outlet is tapped.  This allows owners the luxury of using several sources of hot water at the same time without any loss of temperature consistency. 

In this day and time we all need to be concerned about the best way to do anything and everything.  I hope you find this information to be of use.

John Fish  (919) 696-3474     Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com    Website: www.JohnFish.com

Rolesville, North Carolina.  Rolesville’s Population is exploding!  Rolesville’s population has doubled to 2,500 during the last seven years.  Projections call for it to become a community of 11,500 by 2012.  Only last week the town approved Averette Farms, a subdivision of 831 homes.  Rolesville’s biggest problem is - water - what else!

Watching early morning TV news from the “Big Apple” is not something you want to do if you want news that is meaningful.  As to accurate you can forget about that.  For that reason about the only thing I watch is the local news, briefly, for the weather report.  Because the tube was on this morning and because just about anything with regard to water (however remote it might be) seems to catch my eyes or ears, I saw a dish drainer that they say costs $72.00.  I’m certainly glad they had that newsworthy tid bit on.  It may, however, say something about our society but that’s another story.   As Lucy would say, Uuuggghhhh!! Dog germs! 

John Fish (919) 696-3474    Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com     www.JohnFish.com 

Raleigh, North Carolina.  You may know Energy Star but do you know Building America?  Water shortages are plaguing the South.  Energy prices are climbing out of sight.  Global warming is a real and potentially disasterous situation.  These and many of problems make taking advantage of every energy and money saving element one can of importance to everyone.  Building America approaches greenbuilding through the use of systems engineering. The idea is to make every aspect of home design and construction more energy efficient and to make all products within a home more durable, safe and friendly to the homeowner and the environment.  The long-term goal of the program is develop homes that produce as much energy as they use; in other words a zero energy home.  Some of the many benefits to homeowners include:  * Climate-specific design   *  Reduced temperature fluctuations   *  Protect owners from energy price fluctuations   *  Provide energy-efficient applliances and lighting   *  Allow homes to function even during blackouts   *  Utilize solar thermal and solar electric systems   *  Utilize and improve passive solar heating and cooling   *  Reduce internal and external polution  * Use and improve energy efficient building materials   *  Improve natural daylight   *

This project offers many benefits to the building industry and its suppliers as well.  They include:  *  Providing new products for manufacturers and suppliers  *  Opportunity to use energy and material saving technologies   *  Enable home builders to reduce waste and construction time.   The builders and suppliers who participate in this program with the government agree to provide information in a number of ways in order to find out what works, what provides only nominal savings and what doesn’t work. 

The PowerHouse is a prototype being used in one area.  It incorporates precast foundation panels, Energy Brace sheathings and foamboard as well as a blown-in fiberglass blanket, tankless water heaters that provide on-demand hot water, a Trane SEER 19 heat pump, Fantech ventilation fans and solar panels and energy-efficient lights.   All this comes at a higher price to the builder who, in turn, passes that price along to the homeowner.  However, the calculations are that the saving in utility costs more than offset the increased costs.  Furthermore the homeowner will have more comfort, improved safety and increased health benefits. 

For those of you who might want information in more depth I would suggest you contact the following: For New Construction - Mr. George James - Office of Building Technologies - EE-2J Forrestal Building - U.S Department of Energy - 1000 Independence Avenue, SW - Washington, D.C. 20585-0121  Tel: (202) 586-9472   email: George.James@ee.doe.gov        For Existing Homes - Mr. Terry Logee - The same address - Tel: (202) 586-1689   email: Terry.Logee@ee.doe.gov     For Onsite Power Systems and “Net Zero Energy” - Mr. Lew Pratsch - The same address - Tel: (202) - 586-1512   email: Lew.Pratsch@hq.doe.gov

Everyone has, or should have, an interest in such things.  I would highly recommend you discuss energy saving materials and devices with your contractor when you remodel your current home or build your next one.  They are there to be taken advantage of even if remodeling wasn’t on your current agenda.

John Fish (919) 696-3474    Email:  Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com    Website: www.JohnFish.com

Was Charles Schulz actually Gloomy Gus?  The current flap over the David Michaelis biography of Charles Schulz is another of the never ending examples of “Much Addo About Nothing.”  Who is the world gives a rats backside other than, perhaps, his family?  I haven’t read the book and I don’t intend to.  Another such book that comes to mind is Gary Crosby’s book about his father Bing Crosby.  Was Bing a bum?  Again, I don’t know and I don’t care.  So, if I haven’t read either book why bring them up?  Only because of what I do know.  I know about Charlie Brown and Lucy, Schroeder, Linus and Peppemint Patty.  I know about the Great Pumpkin and A Charlie Brown Christmas.  I know about Woodstock and Snoopy and the Red Barron.  I know about one of the world’s most famous pieces of real estate; perhap’s the world’s most famous private residence - Snoopy’s dog house (I’ve got to get real estate into this somehow).  I know about White Christmas and Christmas TV shows with Bing and Frank.  I know about the hundreds of songs that WERE Bing Crosby.  I know about the marvelous language of Bing Crosby.  Listen to the causual conversational language of a man who was a master of words other than just with songs.  I know about one of the all time great pieces of music (to me) that features tremendous interplay between Crosby and Sinatra, What A Swell Party This Is, in the movie High Society.  With lyrics by Cole Porter how could it not be sensational?  So, whatever Charles or Bing “really” were or weren’t I could care less about.  I didn’t know them, they didn’t know me and I didn’t influence their lives in any way.  They, however, have been a special part of my life and I can have them and remember them for what they have given me and not for the less than noble people they might have been in ”real life.”  And yes, they have influenced my life just as have Johnny Hart, Mell Lazarus, Walt Kelly, Frank, Ella, and and many others.  I don’t like the TV program - Biography.  It likes to play up the seemy side of the lives of famous folks most of whom I am not interested in anyway.  By the same token they seem to almost ridicule those who have lived good lives aside from being famouse for whatever they do or did.  I hear you.  “If you don’t like it, why do you watch it?”  My wife likes it so there are times I can’t escape it.  So, all hail to all you guys and gals who have brought a lot of smiles and enjoyable moments into my life and into the lives of those I love.  I don’t give a hoot what you are or were.  I just take the good pieces.  As for the rest, that’s for someone else to worry about.  End of this Sunday’s sermon.

P.S.  Many years ago in Chicago, Joann and I had the good fortune to sit behind Bing and and his family in a movie theatre at a time when his children were small.  Small children sitting through a long movie tend to talk and move around a lot and Bing wasn’t having any of it.  He kept quieting them down and keeping the situation in control.  To say the least we thoroughly enjoyed the movie and the extra “added attractions.” 

John Fish (919) 696-3474    Email: Marvmax@mindspring.com   Website:  www.JohnFish.com

Raleigh-Cary & Durham Metropolitan Statistical Areas.  Triangle Banks “branch” out.  When I was a boy (and yes I can remember back that far) the joke was that there was a gas station on every corner.  As the years have come and gone there are less and less of them.  Banks, on the other hand, have taken their place in that joke.  I am going to list banks in the area and the number of branches they have.  My only reason for doing this is that with the continuing flow of people into Wake County and the rest of the Triangle, most newbies to the area want to know if their bank is here.  If not, who is?  The following is a list of the banks and their branches in the Raleigh-Cary and Durham metropolitan statistical areas.  The Raleigh-Cary MSA is Wake, Franklin and Johnston counties while the Durham MSA includes Durham, Orange, Chaham and Person counties  The number after each bank is the number of branches it has in the given MSA.

Raleigh-Cary:  Bank of America - 20     Branch Banking & Trust - 33     Capital Bank - 8     Crescent State - 7     First Citizens - 38     North State - 5     RBC Centura - 21     SunTrust/National commerce Financial     Wachovia - 43

Durham MSA:  Bank of America - 12     Branch Banking & Trust - 13     *Cardinal State - 4     First Citizens - 7     RBC Centura - 9     Square 1 Bank - 1     SunTrust/National Commerce Financial - 35     Wachovia - 20     *Cardinal State is being acquired by Yadkin Valley Financial Corp.

Three new banks have entered the market this year.  To meet the need of this areas ever growing Hispanic community this is Garner’s Nuestro Banco.  They plan to open four branches in Wake County during the next two years.  The exterior of the Garner bank even has a Mexican style look to it.  Banco de la Gente indicates they will open their first location in Raleigh in November.  The second startup is Raleigh’s TrustAtlantic Bank and the third is Durham’s KeySource Commerical Bank.  If you are coming to the Triangle, you want to start a business but can’t decide on what it should be why not start a bank?  What the heck, everyone else does!

John Fish (919) 696-3474      Email:  Marvmax@mindspring.com      Website: www.JohnFish.com